I’ve learned that every city tells its story through its kitchens and dining rooms. In Lille, a city that sits at the crossroads of France and Belgium, the culinary narrative is rich, hearty, and full of surprises.
When I first arrived in Lille, I thought I would only find French classics: croissants, escargots, maybe some delicate pâtisserie. But Lille quickly showed me that its culinary identity leans heavily toward Flemish traditions—think robust stews, plenty of beer pairings, cheeses that can command a room, and desserts that feel like warm embraces. In this blog, I’ll take you through five real restaurants I tried during my stay in Lille, highlighting their signature dishes, prices, locations, and my personal impressions. I’ll also share tips for booking, what to expect in terms of service, and some notes for travelers who, like me, treat food as both adventure and memory.
- Estaminet T’Rijsel
📍 25 Rue de Gand, 59800 Lille
If I had to choose just one restaurant that defines the culinary heart of Lille, it would be Estaminet T’Rijsel. Located on Rue de Gand—a street lined with cozy estaminets (traditional Flemish-style taverns)—T’Rijsel felt like stepping back in time. Wooden tables, mismatched chairs, lace curtains, and walls decorated with old clocks and rustic trinkets gave me the impression I had stumbled into someone’s grandmother’s living room.
What I Ordered
• Carbonnade Flamande (€16.50)
This is perhaps the most famous Flemish dish: beef slowly stewed in beer with onions and spices. The beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender, with a slightly sweet, malty flavor from the local brown beer used in the sauce. Served with golden fries, it was hearty, warming, and the perfect dish for a rainy Lille evening.
• Potjevleesch (€14.00)
Literally translating to “little pot of meat,” this is a terrine of chicken, rabbit, and pork preserved in vinegar jelly. It sounds unusual if you’re not familiar with northern French cooking, but it was refreshing, tangy, and surprisingly light.
• Homemade Tarte au Sucre (€7.00)
This sugar pie, a northern specialty, was served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Sweet, buttery, and simple, it reminded me why rustic desserts often hit hardest.
My Impressions
T’Rijsel is not a fine dining spot; it’s about comfort and tradition. Service was warm but not hurried, and I appreciated that the waiter took time to explain the history behind each dish. Portions were generous, making it good value for money. The only downside? It’s incredibly popular with both locals and tourists, so reservations are highly recommended.
- La Chicorée
📍 Place Rihour, 59800 Lille
If Estaminet T’Rijsel was a cozy family gathering, La Chicorée was its lively cousin who always hosts the party. Open 24 hours a day, this brasserie-style restaurant sits in the bustling Place Rihour, just steps from the Grand Place. It became my go-to spot for late dinners after exploring Lille’s winding streets.
What I Ordered
• Welsh Rarebit “à la Lilloise” (€14.90)
Forget the English version you may know—this local take is indulgent beyond belief. A thick slice of bread is covered with ham, smothered in melted cheddar cheese mixed with beer and mustard, and baked until bubbling. Served with fries and a side salad, it’s the ultimate comfort food.
• Chicon au Gratin (€12.50)
Endives (called chicons here) are wrapped in ham, covered in béchamel sauce, and baked with cheese. Bitter, creamy, salty—it was a rollercoaster of flavors I hadn’t expected to enjoy as much as I did.
• Merveilleux au Chocolat (€6.50)
Lille is famous for this dessert (more on that later). At La Chicorée, their chocolate merveilleux was fluffy, light, and dangerously easy to finish in just a few bites.
My Impressions
La Chicorée is the kind of place where you’ll sit for hours people-watching. The service was brisk—sometimes bordering on rushed—but that’s part of its charm; the waiters juggle countless tables without ever losing their humor. Prices are fair given the central location, and the atmosphere is unbeatable.
- Aux Moules
📍 34 Rue de Béthune, 59800 Lille
If you’re in Lille, you must try mussels. And there’s no better place to do it than Aux Moules, a restaurant that has specialized in mussel dishes since 1930. The façade alone, with its blue-and-white nautical theme, lures you in, and once inside, the smell of garlic, white wine, and seafood seals the deal.
What I Ordered
• Moules Marinières (€15.90 for a pot)
A classic: mussels steamed with white wine, shallots, and parsley. Served with bottomless fries, it was fresh, briny, and aromatic.
• Moules au Roquefort (€17.50)
This version was indulgent: mussels in a creamy Roquefort cheese sauce. The sharpness of the cheese paired beautifully with the natural sweetness of the mussels.
• Waffles with Speculoos Cream (€7.00)
To finish, I tried Belgian-style waffles topped with speculoos spread (spiced biscuit paste). Sweet, spiced, and absolutely delicious.
My Impressions
The portions here are huge—each pot of mussels could easily feed two, but no one will judge you for finishing it alone. The restaurant has a lively, slightly chaotic vibe, especially during peak hours. Service was efficient, and the staff didn’t mind me lingering after my meal with a glass of local beer. A must-visit for seafood lovers.
- Meert
📍 27 Rue Esquermoise, 59800 Lille
When I first read about Meert, I thought, “How special can a waffle really be?” Turns out, very. Founded in 1761, Meert is an institution in Lille. It’s both a pâtisserie and a tearoom, and it’s best known for its filled waffles, which are unlike anything I’d tasted before.
What I Ordered
• Vanilla-Filled Waffles (€8.50 for a box of 2)
These thin, rectangular waffles are filled with a Madagascar vanilla cream that is rich, smooth, and sweet without being cloying. I brought several boxes home as gifts—and regretted not keeping more for myself.
• Duck Parmentier with Sweet Potato (€19.00)
For a savory option in their tearoom, I tried this elegant dish. Tender duck confit layered with mashed sweet potato, topped with a light gratin crust. Refined yet comforting.
• Seasonal Pastry (€7.50)
On my visit, it was a pistachio and raspberry tart. Fresh, vibrant, and visually stunning.
My Impressions
Meert is luxurious but worth every cent. The tearoom has chandeliers, gilded mirrors, and a sense of history that makes you feel like you’re part of something special. Service is formal but friendly, and reservations are recommended, especially for weekend afternoons. Their waffles are truly iconic, and I now understand why Parisians once traveled to Lille just to buy them.
- Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille
📍 2 Rue des Vieux Murs, 59800 Lille
Nestled in the old town, Au Vieux de la Vieille was one of my favorite finds. It felt authentically local, with checkered tablecloths, board games stacked in the corner, and a menu that proudly showcased regional specialties.
What I Ordered
• Waterzooi de Volaille (€16.00)
A Flemish chicken stew with vegetables in a creamy broth, served with potatoes. The chicken was tender, the sauce velvety, and the portion was generous.
• Flemish Rabbit with Prunes (€17.00)
A sweet-and-savory dish that combined slow-cooked rabbit with prunes in a rich sauce. It was unusual but deeply comforting.
• Homemade Crème Brûlée (€6.50)
Classic, with a perfectly caramelized top that cracked just right under my spoon.
My Impressions
This estaminet was buzzing with locals, which is always a good sign. The staff was warm and happy to recommend dishes, and the prices were reasonable. I loved the laid-back, convivial vibe—like dining in someone’s countryside kitchen.
Beyond Restaurants: Lille’s Foodie Essentials
Lille isn’t just about sit-down meals. Here are a few tips and notes that enhanced my food journey:
• Book ahead for estaminets. These places are small and fill up quickly. Use platforms like LaFourchette (TheFork) for reservations.
• Try local beers. Many restaurants offer beer pairings, and Lille’s craft beer scene is thriving.
• Expect hearty portions. Lillois food is not dainty—come hungry.
• Save room for desserts. Between sugar pies, waffles, and merveilleux, Lille could double as a dessert capital.
Lille on My Plate
Eating in Lille is like opening a well-loved cookbook where every recipe tells a story of resilience, tradition, and joie de vivre. From the steaming pot of carbonnade flamande at Estaminet T’Rijsel to the elegant vanilla waffles of Meert, I felt like I was tasting history with every bite.
What struck me most is how food in Lille is not just about flavor—it’s about connection. At every restaurant, I found locals eager to share their culture through their cuisine. Whether it was the waiter explaining the origins of potjevleesch, or the woman at Meert proudly wrapping my box of waffles, the experience was always personal.
For any traveler, my advice is simple: come to Lille hungry, both for food and for stories. Book your tables in advance, budget for both rustic estaminets and elegant tearooms, and never skip dessert.
As I left Lille, suitcase heavy with waffles, sugar pies, and cheese, I realized that the true souvenir wasn’t in the food I carried home—it was in the warmth, generosity, and traditions that I’d tasted along the way. Lille, with its hearty Flemish spirit and French flair, truly is a destination every food lover must savor.
