How Nancy Won My Stomach
I’ve traveled extensively across France—dined in Parisian brasseries, sipped Champagne in Reims, and feasted on seafood in Brittany. But nothing quite prepared me for the culinary charm of Nancy. Nestled in the Lorraine region, Nancy isn’t just an architectural jewel with its stunning Place Stanislas; it’s also a gastronomic haven.
I’ve developed a habit: whenever I arrive in a new city, I set aside time to explore its food scene—not just the high-end restaurants, but the cafés, bistros, and even local bakeries. Food tells you about a place’s history, traditions, and people. In Nancy, every meal felt like a story from Lorraine’s cultural tapestry.
Let me walk you through the five restaurants where I experienced Nancy’s traditional dishes at their finest. I’ll share the highlights, what I ordered, how much it cost, and the little details that made the experience unforgettable.
- Brasserie Excelsior – The Art Nouveau Dining Jewel
📍 Location: 50 Rue Henri Poincaré, 54000 Nancy
💶 Price Range: €30–€60 per person
🌟 Specialties: Quiche Lorraine, pâté lorrain, baba au rhum
If Nancy had a temple of gastronomy, it would be Brasserie Excelsior. Just a short walk from the train station, this century-old brasserie is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the stomach. The interior is breathtaking—ornate stained glass, chandeliers, and woodwork straight out of the École de Nancy Art Nouveau movement.
I visited on a crisp autumn evening. The waiters, dressed in black vests and bowties, gave the whole experience a timeless feel. I started with a pâté lorrain (€12)—a puff pastry filled with marinated pork and veal. The pastry was flaky, and the filling had a peppery kick that reminded me of rustic countryside cooking.
For the main course, I couldn’t resist ordering the quiche Lorraine (€16). Forget the versions you’ve had elsewhere—this one was a revelation. Rich, custardy, with smoky lardons, all baked in a buttery crust. Paired with a glass of local Pinot Gris (€7), it was pure comfort.
Dessert was the famous baba au rhum (€12), generously soaked in rum, with a side of whipped cream so light it almost floated. I’ll admit, I had to walk it off afterward along Place Stanislas, but it was worth every bite.
• Pros: Stunning décor, attentive service, authentic Lorraine menu.
• Cons: A bit touristy at peak hours, reservations highly recommended.
👉 Tip: Book via their official website or through LaFourchette (TheFork)—sometimes you’ll find 20% discounts on certain timeslots.
- Le V-Four – Where Tradition Meets Gastronomic Precision
📍 Location: 4 Rue des Maréchaux, 54000 Nancy
💶 Price Range: €45–€80 per person
🌟 Specialties: Lorraine pork filet, foie gras with mirabelle plum chutney, soufflé
Tucked away on Rue des Maréchaux (known locally as the “rue gourmande” for its dense concentration of eateries), Le V-Four is a fine-dining spot that manages to stay unpretentious.
I booked a table here for lunch and opted for their menu du jour (€32 for three courses). The starter was foie gras paired with a sweet-tart mirabelle plum chutney. Lorraine is famous for its mirabelles, and this pairing was genius—the fruitiness cut through the richness of the foie gras perfectly.
The main course was a tender pork filet in mustard sauce. The meat was cooked to perfection, juicy and flavorful, with a side of dauphinoise potatoes that were creamy and indulgent. Dessert was a seasonal soufflé—light as air, with just enough sweetness.
The dining room was intimate, with only a handful of tables, which meant service was highly attentive. I never felt rushed, and the staff happily explained the local origins of each dish.
• Pros: Seasonal menus, elegant but relaxed, great wine list.
• Cons: Fills up quickly—book at least a week ahead.
👉 Tip: If you want to sample Lorraine’s specialties elevated to gourmet status, this is the spot.
- La Maison dans le Parc – Dining Like Royalty in a Garden
📍 Location: 3 Rue Sainte-Catherine, 54000 Nancy
💶 Price Range: €60–€120 per person
🌟 Specialties: Scallops with bergamot sauce, seasonal game, tarte fine
Set in a gorgeous townhouse with a garden terrace, La Maison dans le Parc felt like a culinary oasis. I dined here on a summer evening, and the outdoor seating under twinkling lights was magical.
The highlight of my meal was a dish I never expected: scallops with bergamot sauce (€32). Bergamot, usually associated with tea, is also a Nancy specialty. Its citrusy bitterness gave the dish a unique, refreshing edge.
For the main, I indulged in venison with red wine reduction (€38). It was rich, hearty, and perfectly paired with a bold glass of Côtes de Toul red. Dessert was a delicate tarte fine aux pommes (€14)—a paper-thin apple tart that melted in my mouth.
• Pros: Romantic setting, creative use of local ingredients, impeccable service.
• Cons: On the pricier side, portions are refined rather than hearty.
👉 Tip: Best for special occasions or a romantic evening. Book well in advance, especially in summer.
- Chez Suzette – Comfort Food with Lorraine Charm
📍 Location: 66 Grande Rue, 54000 Nancy
💶 Price Range: €20–€40 per person
🌟 Specialties: Quiche variations, escargots, hearty casseroles
Sometimes, you want comfort food in a cozy setting, and Chez Suzette delivered exactly that. Located on Grande Rue, it’s a welcoming spot with wooden beams and checkered tablecloths that feel straight out of a countryside inn.
I went for dinner and ordered a classic escargot starter (€10). The garlic butter was heavenly, and I couldn’t help dipping bread into it. For the main, I tried their quiche with mushrooms and bacon (€14), slightly different from the traditional Lorraine version but equally satisfying.
The atmosphere was laid-back, with families, couples, and even a few solo diners like me. Service was friendly—my waitress recommended a local white wine from Toul (€6 a glass), which paired beautifully.
• Pros: Affordable, hearty dishes, authentic ambiance.
• Cons: Smaller wine list, service can be a bit slow on busy nights.
👉 Tip: Perfect for a casual night out or if you’re craving quiche in different variations.
- Pâtisserie Jean Lamour – Sweet Heaven in the Heart of Nancy
📍 Location: 4 Place Stanislas, 54000 Nancy
💶 Price Range: €5–€15 per pastry or dessert
🌟 Specialties: Macarons de Nancy, bergamotes, mille-feuille
No trip to Nancy is complete without indulging in sweets, and Pâtisserie Jean Lamour is legendary. Located right on Place Stanislas, it’s as iconic as the square itself.
I bought a box of macarons de Nancy (€12)—these aren’t the colorful Parisian macarons, but almond-based cookies that are denser, chewier, and absolutely addictive. I also couldn’t resist trying their bergamotes (€8 for a small box). These amber-colored candies, made from bergamot extract, are a registered specialty of Nancy and make perfect souvenirs.
For immediate gratification, I enjoyed a slice of their mille-feuille (€7) with a cappuccino (€4). Sitting by the window overlooking Place Stanislas, I felt like I was in a postcard.
• Pros: Iconic pastries, great for gifts, unbeatable location.
• Cons: Slightly more expensive due to touristy spot.
👉 Tip: Go early in the morning for the freshest selection before they sell out.
Traditional Dishes of Nancy You Shouldn’t Miss
• Quiche Lorraine – The city’s signature dish, made with cream, eggs, and bacon.
• Pâté Lorrain – A savory meat pie, perfect as a starter.
• Potée Lorraine – A hearty stew of pork, cabbage, and root vegetables.
• Mirabelle Plum Desserts – Tarts, jams, and liqueurs featuring this golden fruit.
• Macarons de Nancy – The chewy almond cookies unique to the region.
• Bergamotes de Nancy – Candies with citrusy bergamot flavor.
Booking and Reservation Tips
• Use LaFourchette (TheFork) for discounts at mid-to-high-end restaurants.
• Call ahead for traditional spots like Chez Suzette—they don’t always update online availability.
• For fine dining (Le V-Four, La Maison dans le Parc), book at least a week in advance, especially weekends.
• Many pâtisseries don’t take reservations—just show up early.
Why Nancy Feeds the Soul
After a week in Nancy, I realized that food here is more than sustenance—it’s a celebration of heritage and hospitality. Each restaurant I visited brought something different: the grandeur of Brasserie Excelsior, the refinement of Le V-Four, the romantic flair of La Maison dans le Parc, the homely comfort of Chez Suzette, and the sweet delights of Pâtisserie Jean Lamour.
What stood out most was how local ingredients and traditions shaped every plate. Whether it was mirabelle plums woven into foie gras, or the simple pleasure of a bergamot candy, Nancy’s food scene felt deeply rooted in place.
If you’re planning a trip, come hungry—and don’t be afraid to wander off the main streets. Some of the best meals I had were in spots I stumbled upon by accident. And above all, leave space in your luggage for edible souvenirs. Trust me, you’ll regret it if you don’t.
Nancy isn’t just a city you visit—it’s a city you taste, savor, and carry home in your heart (and your stomach).
